48 Hours in Lavaux: Vineyards, Fine Dining and Blue Horizons

A Weekend Among the Vines

Just a few minutes outside Lausanne, the scenery begins to move at a different pace. In Lavaux, the slopes set the rhythm: you walk between the vines, pause before a sudden glimpse of blue, then follow the path as another village appears below. The lake accompanies every turn, while the Alps seem to float on the opposite shore.

These UNESCO World Heritage-listed terraces are far more than a beautiful panorama. They form a living landscape, cultivated over generations. To appreciate it, there is no need to see everything. Our itinerary unfolds over two days and a handful of carefully chosen stops: a table with a view, two encounters centred around Chasselas, an aperitif suspended above the lake and a night among the vines.

Day 1 — Grandvaux, Épesses and the Evening Light

10:00 am — Take in the View from Grandvaux

Begin in Grandvaux, easily reached by train. Before settling in anywhere, take time for a walk. The full panoramic route towards Cully takes around two and a half hours, but there is no need to follow it all the way. The pleasure lies in choosing your own pace — with comfortable walking shoes and a bottle of water.

In this beautifully structured landscape, low stone walls hold the vineyard plots in place and frame the lake like a succession of windows. In autumn, the greens turn warmer, the light falls lower and Lavaux takes on an almost cinematic softness.

12:30 pm — Lunch with a View

Just a few steps from the station, the Auberge de la Gare embraces a relaxed elegance: a terrace overlooking the lake and the Alps, a menu shaped by fresh ingredients and an atmosphere that feels like a natural continuation of the walk. It is the ideal place to ease into the weekend without disrupting its gentle rhythm.

3:00 pm — Understanding Chasselas in Épesses

In Épesses, Domaine Blaise Duboux offers a precise interpretation of Lavaux. Here, Chasselas takes on a different voice from one plot to the next: fuller, more mineral, sometimes shaped by stone and slope. Calamin and Dézaley become more than names on a label; they reveal two distinct expressions of an extraordinarily compact terroir.

Tastings must be booked in advance. This matters: Lavaux remains a working wine region, and its cellars are not necessarily open throughout the day. Visiting by appointment allows for a more meaningful encounter, far removed from the hurried rhythm of conventional wine tourism.

6:00 pm — Golden Hour Above the Lake

For an aperitif, head up towards Chexbres. At the Baron Tavernier, Le Deck’s terrace bar overlooks the vineyards and Lake Geneva. The setting is spectacular, but the most beautiful moment comes when the light begins to glide across the water. Order a drink, put your phone away for a few minutes and watch the landscape change colour. The gastronomic restaurant is also an excellent choice for lovers of fine dining.

8:00 pm — A Local Table in Grandvaux

Return to Grandvaux for dinner at Tout un Monde. The restaurant’s cuisine celebrates its close relationship with Swiss producers and the Lavaux region, featuring fish from Lake Geneva, wines from Bourg-en-Lavaux and ingredients selected with the seasons. The veranda and terrace extend into the surrounding landscape, while the former Saint-Nicolas tower lends the setting a more intimate character.

Where to Stay — Two Ways to Remain Part of the Landscape

Choose the Baron Tavernier for a comfortable escape with sweeping views, a spa and breakfast above the vineyards. For a more intimate experience, look for a guesthouse in the heart of the wine country and book well in advance: accommodation is limited, and the harvest season can sometimes affect availability.

Day 2 — Saint-Saphorin, Rivaz and Time Stands Still

9:30 am — Down to Saint-Saphorin

The following morning, set off early. Saint-Saphorin is best discovered before the visitors arrive, while its cobbled lanes are still quiet. With its closely packed façades, church tower and narrow passages leading towards the vines, the village reveals a more intimate side of Lavaux.

Continue towards Rivaz on foot or by train. Here, the railway network is an invaluable ally: it allows you to plan a one-way itinerary, enjoy the wine without getting back behind the wheel and leave the car out of the weekend altogether.

11:00 am — Another Interpretation of the Terroir

At Domaine Bovy, the Saint-Saphorin made from old vines offers another point of comparison. The same grape variety tells the story of a different aspect, soil and winemaking tradition. This is the value of spacing out two tastings: the aim is not to collect as many wines as possible, but to understand their nuances.

2:00 pm — Lavaux in One Place

Finish your journey at Lavaux Vinorama in Rivaz. The centre brings together a wide selection of regional wines, allowing you to continue exploring without travelling further afield. It is also an excellent place to choose a few bottles with a better understanding of their origins, rather than relying solely on the label.

A Souvenir to Take Home

A bottle, of course — chosen after a tasting rather than as a trophy. But also that rare feeling of having travelled without venturing far from home: two days in which the landscape invites you to slow down, distances return to a human scale and every turn reveals a new horizon.

The NOW Travel Notes